Some Small Museums of Egypt
See small pictures of the artefacts mentioned in the text to the right -
click on the pictures to see larger, more detailed copies.
As well as the famous Cairo museum there are some other smaller and newer
museums in Egypt. Of these, three spring immediately to mind; the Imhotep museum
at Sakkara, the Luxor museum and the Mummification museum, both in Luxor.
The Imhotep Museum at Sakkara
The first one mentioned is the Imhotep museum complex that was only opened
within the last 6 or so years. It's named after the architect of the 3rd dynasty
Step pyramid of Djoser (ca.2668-2649BCE). Imhotep, who was the first man to
create in stone the reed pillars and palm log ceilings previously used in
building. For this first experiment in building in stone as well as his
achievements in a number of other fields, he is today considered to have been a
genius. In his lifetime, he achieved high status eventually rising to be second
only to the king and in the Late Period (525-404BCE) was worshipped as a god and
later was associated with Aesclepius, the Greek god of medicine.
The complex also boasts a library, a bookshop and small auditorium where
short films are shown, while the museum itself consists of a series of
rectangular 'halls' that run the width of the building.
Entrance is via a deep portico, the roof of which is held aloft by square
pillars - this leads into a large entrance hall which is dominated by a glass
case containing a statue base of Djoser - sadly all that remains of what was
doubtless a fine statue, are the king's feet; these stand upon the Nine Bows
that represent the enemies of Egypt while in front of the feet are 3 depictions
of the 'rekhyt bird' which represents the people of Egypt. On the base, along
with some representations of amulets (the djed and tjit amulets) is the name of
the architect Imhotep; having his name placed here indicates the high regard in
which the king held him.
The next hall contains objects from all periods in Ancient Egyptian history -
of interest is a Graeco-Roman mummy called by Dr Zahi Hawass 'the most beautiful
mummy'; it's in pristine condition, the face covered by a gilded mask and the
body by a colourful cartonnage, cover decorated with scenes depicting several of
the gods. Alas, there is no name visible. Another funerary item here is a rather
ugly wooden coffin typical of the Late Period.
But to make up for that there are some very fine items from the tomb of an
Old Kingdom physician named Qar; an offering table, head rests and jars in
beautiful Egyptian alabaster.
Also in this hall is pair of limestone statues from the late New Kingdom that
depicts Amenemope, a priest of the goddess Mut and his wife; both wear elaborate
pleated outfits with heavy wigs - although the details of their clothes and wigs
are skillfully carved, their bodies are out of proportion and both have huge
feet, while the priest's hands look too big for his body. (Compare these with
the very lifelike wooden statues of the 6th dynasty in Hall 4.)
The next hall is the main hall of the museum and all exhibits here are
connected to the Step pyramid complex and all celebrate the achievements of the
great Imhotep. A bronze seated statue of Imhotep is displayed here and dates to
the Late Period.
Here are some reconstructed statues of Djoser showing him wearing the heb sed
robe, one hand on his knee while the other holds a sceptre. But the focus of
this hall is the back wall - a reconstruction of the decoration of some of
chambers beneath the Step pyramid - magnificent blue/green faience tiles line
the wall, broken at intervals by doors which appear to have rolled-up reed mats
of blue faience at their tops. Other depictions of Imhotep's innovative
architectural ideas are the semi-engaged columns that represent bundles of
papyrus as well as a limestone ceiling representing logs.
The next or 4th hall is the one I like best! Everything here is from the Old
Kingdom! Skillfully worked stone vases and jars of all shapes and sizes, many
come from the galleries under the Step pyramid where, incidentally, over 40,000
have been found! Here again we can see the exceptional skill in stone working of
the ancient Egyptians, even at this early time in their history.
My very favourites are the beautiful statues of officials, some in stone and
some in wood - these last are overlaid with plaster and with the features
painted on. The best are two statues of a man called Ptahhotep. In both, he's
shown walking but each statue has a different wig and kilt. I'm not sure why but
in one he appears to be wearing a short version of the royal beard!
Stone statues are represented by two of an Old Kingdom official name
Ptahhepses; one depicts him as a seated scribe and both of the finest quality,
both artistically and quality of workmanship. Compare the natural proportions of
these early statues with the pair from the New Kingdom some 1000 years later.
The displays in the last hall contain mostly exhibits from the 6th dynasty
kings Pepi I (ca.2332-2283BCE) and Pepi II (ca.2278-2184BCE) and include mace
heads, jewellery and a copper jar. A unique object in this hall is the oldest
known royal mummy - that of the short lived king Merenra (ca.2283-2278BCE) who
reigned between and Pepi I and Pepi II; sadly, I haven't been able to source a
photograph of this mummy.
The hall deals mainly with preparation for the Afterlife and includes a
number of interesting funerary goods including a most interesting papyrus
containing some Pyramid Texts. Amongst the so-so 30th dynasty goods are
beautiful Old Kingdom canopic jars, a lovely Egyptian Alabaster offering table,
food boxes in the shape of geese and a 'false door'.
The information about this museum I've taken from the copious notes I made on
my first visit there in 2004 when having travelled from Cairo by taxi, I was
able to spend as much time as I needed taking the notes on which this short
article is based.
Luxor Museum at Luxor
The Luxor museum on the Corniche is relatively new, built I think in the
1970's - it's quite small but it's well laid out and all exhibits are easily
seen and all have legible explanatory notes. The museum is actually on 2 floors
but one approaches the top floor by way of a ramp that winds its way upwards
allowing one to view the exhibits from more than one angle; but back to the
entrance hall!
In the entrance hall one is greeted by a colossal head of Amenhotep III in
red granite; also in the area look out for the great gilded head of cow-headed
goddess Hathor; this was part of the treasures from the tomb of Tutankhamun.
Moving on to the main gallery, various items are displayed in large well kept
glass cases, items from all periods of Egypt's ancient past including some
beautiful portrait busts. One of these is an exquisitely sculpted head of an
18th dynasty army general - Nakhtmin; another piece and a favourite of mine is
the head in red granite of the 12th dynasty king Senusret III.
Another statue to look out for here is of the great warrior Pharaoh Thutmose
III, step-son of Hatshepsut; (see The Queen who
Would be King) in grano-diorite. It was found at Deir el Bahri. Also of
interest is a head of the heretic Pharaoh Akhenaten as well as some reliefs from
the white chapel of Hatshepsut at Karnak. A stela of great historical importance
reports the victory of Kamose over the Semitic Hyksos in (ca.1573-1570BCE).
Also on the ground floor are two mummies, one of Ahmose (ca.1570-1546BCE) -
the founder and first king of the 18th dynasty while the other is the mummy
believed to be the 19th dynasty founder Rameses I (ca.1293-1291BCE). Among the
items on display close to the mummy of Ahmose is a necklace with three golden
flies - this was presented to his mother, Queen Ahhotep - it's a military
decoration and was given for valour in the field so its assumed that this queen
must have, in some way, been active in the campaign to drive out the Hyksos.
Very beautiful workmanship and something you should look out for.
Ascending the ramp brings you to the upper level which houses one of the
finest pieces in the museum - that is a reconstruction of a wall from a temple
of Amenhotep IV or as he's better known, Akhenaten. At his death, all the
monuments constructed by him were dismantled and/or destroyed; the pieces
(called talatat) that make up the wall were found when the ninth pylon at Karnak
temple was being restored; they'd been used as infill for that pylon! Although
over 40,000 talatat have been found in various places only those from the 9th
pylon are well enough preserved to allow them to be reassembled in so accurate a
way as here. Also on the upper floor are small glass cases exhibiting jewellery,
funerary artifacts and other small items of every day life in Ancient Egypt;
also here are the reconstructed fragments of three statues of the lioness-headed
goddess Sekhmet
Leaving the upper level and on your way out, don't miss the Cachette room -
it contains some of the most beautiful statues ever! About 40 statues were
unearthed in the late 80's by workmen doing repairs at the Luxor temple, most of
them in perfect condition; here at the Cachette room you can see some of the
best of them.
What I love about this room is that all the statues are in separate small
stepped areas - this allows one to walk up the steps and round the statues, so
seeing then from all angles. Statues of gods, goddesses, kings and combinations
of these - the workmanship is extremely fine and different kinds of stone are
used. Why they were buried is unknown although of course there are many
suggestions but no definite answers.
This small but well laid out museum is truly not to be missed!
The Mummification Museum at Luxor
This is the smallest of the three museums and is a little gem! Hardly noticed
by tourists due to its odd position 'underground' on the river side of the
Corniche, it's the only museum in the world devoted entirely to the Ancient
Egyptian practice of mummification. The design of the museum recreates the
darkness of the tomb by illuminating the exhibits only by small spotlights in
the ceiling.
This museum also uses the very successful sloping ramp as seen in the Luxor
museum although this one is very short; as one advances up the ramp, look at the
simple line drawings (taken from 30th dynasty papyri) on the wall that depict
the entire funerary process from death to the embalming and burial.
From the top of the ramp one can look down on the well preserved mummy of a
25th dynasty priest named Masaharta; just his face is visible, the rest of his
body is covered with a woven cloth depicting the god of the underworld, Osiris.
Having had a complete view of Masaharta one finds oneself already descending
onto the lower floor. Here are a number of glass display cases, one of which has
a variety of mummified animals including a crocodile, an ibis, a cat and a young
baboon. Another item of interest here is the painted and gilded cartonnage mask
of a mummified ram - sacred to the god Khnum.
The other cases display various instruments used in the mummification and
funerary rituals as well as a lovely set of Egyptian Alabaster canopic jars, the
lids take the form of the four sons of Horus. Dominating the collection in this
area are coffin cases and mummy boards from the 21st dynasty including that of
the priest Masaharta whose mummy you've just seen - they are all most
elaborately decorated in the manner of the Late Period and some of the coffin
bases contain some good, if rather odd funerary vignettes.
A new exhibit in this museum is the so-called funerary bed found in KV63 -
the latest find in the Valley of the Kings. Amongst the many discoveries were
found more than 20 jars; in two of these were found the pieces that make up the
small bed-shaped frame on display here. Some fabric covered pieces of wood with
'snake-like' feet support the frame, while two lion headed terminals fit on
either side of the front of the 'bed'. It's a most interesting piece but its
purpose is far from clear; its thought that it had some kind of funerary
connection.
This little museum is a real gem and its sad that it's not more visited; in
fact, it seems to be relatively unknown by the general tourist who comes to
Luxor with a full schedule; usually it is only the independent traveller who by
happy accident discovers this little treasure.
As photography is forbidden at most museums all depictions of museum exhibits
are from my personal collection of Egypt-related magazines, post cards and
books.
To find out how you can visit this fascinating site, please contact Cecelia
or Lindy on
+27 11 678 4777 or +27 11 478 2884 or email us on:
info@egyptandbeyond.co.za.
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